Insulation Window and Electric questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Save energy every day
•        Does it use more energy to turn things on and off?
•        Are compact fluorescent light bulbs really worth the extra cost?
•        Does it really save energy to turn my thermostat back at night in the winter?
•        How do I figure out the cost to use an electrical appliance such as an air
conditioner, computer or refrigerator?

Home improvements
•        What can I do about moisture problems in my home?
•        How much insulation should I add in my attic?
•        Should I replace my old windows?
•        If I re-side my house, should I add rigid foam board insulation behind the new
siding?

Does it use more energy to turn things on and off?
Turning off an appliance is more efficient than leaving it on.
While an extra surge of electricity flows when you turn on an electrical device, this
surge is brief and uses very little extra power.
Even computers can be safely turned off when you are not using them.
•        Personal computer hard drives are currently engineered to withstand
hundreds of thousands of on/off cycles. There is no problem with turning them off
to save energy.
•        Another way to save is to use the ENERGY STAR® "sleep" mode available
on most systems today.

Are compact fluorescent light bulbs really worth the extra cost?
Yes! Save up to $40 over the life of each compact fluorescent bulb you buy.
Fluorescent bulbs
•        Use about one-fourth of the electricity.
•        Last 10 times longer than comparable incandescent light bulbs.
What to look for:
•        Look for bulbs that meet ENERGY STAR® standards for long life, energy
savings, start time, color and brightness.
•        Check the package label to get the wattage that will give you the light you
need.
•        Available at many hardware, department and building supply stores.

Does it really save energy to turn my thermostat back at night in the
winter?
Turning the thermostat down saves energy and money.
•        Your home will lose less heat when the inside temperature is lower.
•        Overall, your furnace doesn't have to work as much.
•        While your furnace will run for a longer period when the temperature is
turned back up, furnaces typically run more efficiently during continuous use than
during shorter on-and-off cycles to maintain a set temperature.
Consider getting a setback thermostat.
•        Program it to turn down when you are asleep and when you are at work.
•        The temperature can be set to come back up before you get up or get back
home so you will stay comfortable.
•        You can save about 1% on your heating bill for every degree you regularly
set the temperature back for an eight-hour period.
•        We recommend a 5- to 10-degree setback.
•        The elderly and newborns may need warmer temperatures.
•        Check with your doctor if you have health concerns.

How do I figure out the cost to use an electrical appliance such as an air
conditioner, computer or refrigerator?
Check out a portable energy meter from your local library or you can calculate the
cost yourself.
•        Find out the rate you are paying per kilowatt-hour (kWh).
•        Find the wattage of the appliance. It is usually stamped somewhere on the
bottom or back of the appliance.
•        Divide the wattage by 1,000 to get the kilowatts used per hour.
•        Multiply the kilowatts per hour times your utility rate times the hours you use
the appliance.
•        Cost of operation = (Wattage X rate/kWh X hours used) / 1,000

What can I do about moisture problems in my home?
If summertime humidity in your basement is 60% or higher:
•        Molds and mildew grow easily.
•        Moisture wicking through a concrete basement floor can be trapped in
carpeting, resulting in much higher humidity levels than in the air, allowing mold
growth at even lower air humidity.
To reduce humidity during the summer months:
•        Reduce any sources of moisture.
•        Close off the basement to moist, outside air.
•        Use a dehumidifier to bring the humidity down to 50% or less. An inexpensive
humidity gauge from a hardware store can help you adjust your dehumidifier to the
proper setting.
•        Make sure gutters and downspouts carry water away from the foundation
and soil is sloped away from the foundation.
•        Use vent fans during and after bathing and cooking.
•        Dry clothes outside or in a clothes dryer vented to the outside.
•        Do not dry clothes on an indoor clothesline.
•        Put plastic over bare soil in crawl spaces.
Moisture on windows in the winter is also from high relative humidity.
•        As the outside temperature goes down, the inside surface of your windows
can get colder than the dew point of the air in your house.
•        When this happens, water condenses on the glass.
To reduce humidity during the winter months:
•        Make sure the relative humidity is below 40%. Very cold outdoor
temperatures often require indoor humidity lower than 40% to prevent
condensation.
•        Add another layer of glazing with plastic or a storm window.
•        If you have a humidifier, make sure it is turned off and not leaking water.
•        Increase airflow over windows by moving furniture away or using fans.
•        Reduce night temperature setbacks (although this will increase heating
costs).
If mold develops or if you have condensation for more than a few weeks, you have
a more serious problem. For severe moisture problems, consider adding a whole-
house ventilation system (preferably a heat recovery system).

How much insulation should I add in my attic?
•        If you have less than about 10 inches of insulation, you may need to add
more insulation.
•        If you have more than 15 inches of insulation, the extra energy savings for
adding insulation will usually not cover the cost to add it.
•        In the Connecticut area, a value of R-49 is recommended for existing homes.
•        The effectiveness of your insulation will be reduced if air leaks around it.
•        Before you insulate, be sure to seal all openings, cracks and crevices where
air can escape from your heated space into your attic.
Before you start, you can have your home evaluated for air leakage and overall
energy efficiency. In most parts of Connecticut, you can have an expert home
energy auditor from Hoffner Residential Conservation Services conduct a
complete inspection, blower door test, and weatherization service package.

Should I replace my old windows?
•        Replacing all the windows in a home rarely saves more than 10% to 15% of
the home's heating bill.
•        It usually takes 20 years or more to recover the cost of the new windows in
energy savings.
•        Beware of inflated claims of "up to 40% or more" energy savings.
You may still want to replace windows to improve the attractiveness and comfort of
your home. If you buy new windows, look for ones that meet ENERGY STAR®
standards.

If I re-side my house, should I add rigid foam board insulation behind the
new siding?
If your wall cavity is full of insulation, adding rigid foam will not yield significant
additional energy savings.
•        If your wall cavity has little or no insulation, insulate the wall cavity before re-
siding.
•        If you add rigid foam, use foam board at least one inch thick.
•        Siding that has a foam backing on it may provide some additional insulation
value; however, it will not significantly reduce your energy costs.